Salt, Pepper, and the History That Binds Them
Tracing the fascinating journey of these timeless seasonings from ancient necessity to everyday staple.
When you enter any restaurant, you may find many different condiments on the table; however, there are two you will most likely find everywhere: salt and pepper. But why? I understand that salt and pepper add flavors to a dish that can enhance and bring out other flavors, but why salt with pepper? It was one night when my wife went to season her popcorn that this question came to mind. We both discussed with each other what we thought, but ultimately we didn’t have the answer. I spent the rest of the night lying in bed reading and trying to understand. To understand, we’ll need to take a trip down history lane.
The History of Salt
Salt is defined as “a crystalline compound NaCl that consists of sodium chloride, is abundant in nature, and is used especially to season or preserve food or in industry.”1 The method of using salt for food goes all the way back to the Neolithic period in Europe. For many years, archaeologists thought the first signs of salt usage were in the Iron Age due to ceramic remains they found. Archaeologists determined this by discovering what they call briquetage—ceramic structures used to separate seawater into water and salt. This method involved digging a flat area, using briquetage to form the walls and bottom. Once built, the ceramics were either removed and placed in a kiln or stove, or, in a more primitive method, a fire was built over the area. Once hardened, seawater was poured into the area. The construction was designed to let the water evaporate evenly, leaving behind crystallized salt. These salt crystals formed “salt cakes,” which were easier to transport.
In 1984, a Romanian archaeologist named Gheorghe Dumitroaia, who studied ancient Romanian cultures, discovered an area called Poiana Slatinei. This site contained ash, burnt clay, and charcoal spread around. The burnt clay in this area was strikingly similar to the briquetage method used later. Upon further research, this site was dated back to the Neolithic period,2 showing that even before modern civilization, humans were interested in salt collection.
Salt has been used for thousands of years and is known as one of the best ways to preserve meat. Salt absorbs the moisture, or water, in meat, where bacteria thrive. This process, called “salt curing,”3 allowed humans to survive winters, travel farther with preserved food, and, in turn, helped advance civilizations. Many cities were founded around salt, which became essential for growth and trade.4 Fun fact, the word “salary” originated in Rome which comes from the root word “sal” meaning “salt”. This “salary” was the amount of money that was allotted to the soldiers purchasing salt.5
The Journey of Pepper
Another spice with a fascinating history is black pepper. Pepper is defined as a pungent product from the fruit of an Indian plant, used chiefly as a condiment.6 Black pepper dates back to 2000 BC, when it was used for cooking in India. Its taste and believed medicinal properties caused it to spread across Asia.7 In 1492, an explorer sought a more direct route to India, one of the primary sources of black pepper—or “black gold.” That explorer, Christopher Columbus, mistakenly landed in the Americas and called the natives “Indians,” thinking he had reached India. Black pepper was so highly valued that it was used in place of gold to pay debts.8
The Perfect Pair: Salt and Pepper Together
Now that we know the origins of salt and pepper separately, what brought them together? Well, it was a sort of beautiful mistake. Having spices or seasoning your food was once a sign of wealth. In France, King Louis XIV was known for his appetite, which his stomach was said to be “three times the size of a normal adult's.” Unlike the cuisine of the time—legumes, cereals, and boiled meats9 —Louis XIV preferred lightly seasoned meals with only salt and pepper.
This preference influenced François Pierre La Varenne, a celebrity chef of the time and a founder of French cuisine as we know it. La Varenne created meals that suited the king’s taste, focusing on fresh ingredients like fruits and vegetables rather than the medieval spices typically used. This shift started a culinary revolution in France that ultimately spread across the globe.10
A Timeless Pairing That Stands the Test of Time
It may be inconclusive, but it’s fascinating how the simple pairing of salt and pepper has shaped history and the way we eat today. So, the next time you reach for these humble seasonings, take a moment to appreciate their journey—and now I have to ask, will this keep you up at night?
Merriam-Webster. (n.d.). Salt. In Merriam-Webster.com dictionary. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/salt
HAL Open Science. (n.d.). The earliest salt production in the world : an early Neolithic exploitation in Poiana Slatinei-Lunca, Romania. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://hal.science/hal-03036529/document
University of Hawai'i at Mānoa. (n.d.). Compare, contrast, connect: The role of salt in human history. Exploring Our Fluid Earth. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/chemical/chemistry-and-seawater/ionic-compounds/compare-contrast-connect-role-salt-human-history#:~:text=For%20much%20of%20human%20history,wars%20were%20fought%20over%20salt.
University of Hawai'i at Mānoa. (n.d.). Compare, contrast, connect: The role of salt in human history. Exploring Our Fluid Earth. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/chemical/chemistry-and-seawater/ionic-compounds/compare-contrast-connect-role-salt-human-history#:~:text=For%20much%20of%20human%20history,wars%20were%20fought%20over%20salt.
https://www.vocabulary.com/dictionary/salary#:~:text=Salary%20comes%20from%20the%20Latin,an%20expensive%20but%20essential%20commodity.
Merriam-Webster. (n.d.). Pepper. In Merriam-Webster.com dictionary. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/pepper
Salt House and Peppermongers. (n.d.). Black gold: The glorious history of pepper. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://www.salthouseandpeppermongers.com/blog-post/black-gold-the-glorious-history-of-pepper
McCormick Science Institute. (n.d.). Black pepper. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://www.mccormickscienceinstitute.com/resources/culinary-spices/herbs-spices/black-pepper
The art of the table in eighteenth-century France. (n.d.). Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://quod.lib.umich.edu/w/wsfh/0642292.0038.007/--art-of-the-table-in-eighteenth-century-france?rgn=main;view=fulltext
The art of the table in eighteenth-century France. (2010). Proceedings of the Western Society for French History, 38. Retrieved August 20, 2024, from https://quod.lib.umich.edu/w/wsfh/0642292.0038.007/--art-of-the-table-in-eighteenth-century-france?rgn=main;view=fulltext
Thanks for sharing. I knew about salt but not much about the history of pepper and Louis XIV’s preference for food. I am going to read up on La Varenne now.
really interesting! I had no idea the word salary was related to salt!